Using Mallaig as a base,
there were many places within easy reach to visit up and down the coast
as well as exploring the nearby sea lochs. However, the watch
on the weather was always of prime importance especially as it could
- and often did - change very quickly. One of my first trips out
in her was to the village of Inverie on the north shore of Loch Nevis. Only accessible by boat unless
one walks there across the mountains, it supports about 40 people and
boasts of the most remote public house, The Old Forge, on the UK mainland.
Incredible views south into the loch towards Tarbet and west towards
the Isle of Skye. One such trip, I was about 20 minutes from the
safety of Mallaig harbour on my return when the weather turned very
bad. To say the least, it was an experience that I would not like
to encourage. The only other time I was caught in strong winds
was when I was running nor'east into Loch Hourn. Again, the weather
turned suddenly but I was able to reach the relative safety of a mooring
at Arnisdale. It remained bad for 24 hours after which I was able
to go further into the loch and up to Kinloch Hourn which is some 10
miles from the mouth. The sides of the loch are steep with the
mountains rising up to over 3000 feet on all sides. It is known
as the Loch of Hell, for good reason too, for the steepness of the mountains
and the narrowness of the loch, particularly the upper section, can
force the wind to whip up the water in an instant making being afloat
very uncomfortable - as I can testify.
For the most part, the summer
of '99 was perfect. On one 4 day trip, I went up to Glenelg, Eilean
Donan Castle at Dornie, Kyleakin and Plockton and returned via the Point
of Sleat and Glenuig. Glenelg is a small village at the northern end
of the Sound of Sleat which separates Skye from the mainland and I stopped
here for a while before entering the narrows at Kyle Rhea. The
tidal race is very fast at this point and many a boat has been known
to remain stationary despite its engine at 'full ahead' whilst attempting
to run against the currant. The best time to run through is north
on a flood tide and south on the ebb which is what I did.
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Coming out of the
Kyle Rhea which is only about 2 miles long, I entered Loch Alsh and
turned east towards Loch Duich and Loch Long at which junction stood
the castle of Eilean
Donan, probably the best known and most photographed castle certainly
in Scotland and probably in the world. It originally dates from
the early part of the 13th century but was destroyed in 1719.
The restoration of the castle, which started around 1920, took more
than 10 years to complete and has since featured in many motion pictures.
On my arrival in the calm waters of Loch Duich and right below the tall
ramparts of the castle walls, I was enthralled at the sight and took
many photographs. The village of Dornie lies nearby and it was
here, in the narrow and swift running mouth of Loch Long, that I dropped
two anchors and laid up for the night. It was dark by this time and,
behind me, the castle was lit up by spotlights. A beautiful sight.
The next morning in
calm conditions at low water, I weighed both anchors - one of them had
become entangled with debris on the sea bed which gave me a bit of bother
- and continued my journey back through Loch Alsh, stopping on the way
at Kyleakin before passing under the Skye Bridge (I'm not impressed
and .......... but I won't go into that here!!) and turning north up
to Plockton where I spent the second night, this time at a mooring.
This is another picturesque village, very popular with summer
visitors and has featured as the setting for a television drama series
on the BBC. Despite the fact that this trip was taking place in
the middle of winter, the weather was very good with only a slight breeze
and so it was in these conditions that I left Plockton and started south
again, this time running down about a mile off the Skye coast to the
Point of Sleat and then back across to the mainland and into the Sound
of Arisaig to Glenuig.When I entered the
Sound, I noticed what I thought was a great deal of white water about
a mile dead ahead of me but as I continued to watch it, it became apparent
that it was a whale alternately surfacing and diving as it moved from
right to left of my position. With the engine in neutral, I watched
it through the binoculars while it circled round me until it was no
more than 300 to 400 yards away, then it stayed it's course and headed
on out to the open sea. When I could no longer see it, I then
continued on my way towards Glenuig as it was starting to get dark.
What I had just experienced was just incredible and although I have
no idea what breed it was, I could see its back very clearly each time
it surfaced, water shooting water from its blowhole. This was
a first for me and something that I'll never forget.After that, the rest
of my trip was something of an anticlimax although being out on the
water is always enjoyable for me. I stayed at anchor for the night at
Glenuig without going ashore and left early the next morning for the
final leg of the trip back to Mallaig.One of my favourite
places to go to, loner that I am, was to an isolated beach neat the
Point of Sleat on Skye called Camas Daraich which is just about an hour
across from Mallaig. There's nothing there except a lovely view
and a huge expanse of sand when the tide is out. The water is
so clear that, when the sun is out, the bottom is clearly visible while
still a long way from the shore. I made many visits there as I did to
a number of places on the mainland coast marked on the map above with
Loch Nevis and Inverie high on the list. As opposed to Loch Hourn,
Loch Nevis is known as the Loch of Heaven and is the deepest sea loch
on the West Coast. On my way up to Camusory, the water in this
upper part of the loch can often be very still and reflect the land
in the most exact detail as some of my better photographs bear witness.Early in April, 2000,
prior to a permanent move to the Hebrides, I set out in what, to me,
was the unknown. With 3 days of good weather forecast, the water
was almost mirror-like as I left Mallaig towing my dinghy and headed
towards Sleat Point and round to the Isle
of Canna where I stopped - 4 hours and 10 minutes later - and tied
up to the pier in the tiny but very safe harbour for the rest of the
day and night. The Penta engine had performed perfectly but the
overnight stop allowed everything to cool down ready for the next leg
to Eriskay. I left just after dawn and headed west across The
Minch towards the unseen Hebrides. Once again, the weather was
excellent and I made good progress, sighting the Oigh-sgeir light glinting
in the strong sunlight 6 miles off my port beam. With quite a
bit of haze ahead of me on the horizon, it was more than an hour later
before I could see the 2033 foot peak of Beinn Mhòr on South
Uist. Using Thairteamul Island off the north-east corner of Eriskay
as a guide, I reached the safe anchorage of Acairseid Mhòr in
5 hours 20 minutes after leaving Canna, a total of 49 nautical miles
in 9½ hours. I made the same trip about 3 weeks later in
a fishing boat in some very rough seas . . . . . . . but that's another
story!Since then, I have
been up to Lochboisdale on South Uist and other smaller, local destinations
a number of times and also to Castlebay on Barra.
This was where many, if not all, of the locations for the 1949
film "Whisky Galore", mentioned on my Eriskay page, was made.
The Castlebay run south was made with a fresh northerly behind me and
took just under 3 hours. After a look around and something to
eat, I started the return back, this time heading straight into the
wind which was a little uncomfortable to say the least but conditions
became a lot easier as I got closer to the hills on South Uist and I
reached my mooring a short while later.As with the mainland
coast, the Hebridian scenery is superb and offers many destinations.
However, the weather is often more changeable and, particularly when
in the waters around Eriskay, said to be one of the more dangerous areas
in the Hebrides, a sharp look-out has to be maintained for the countless
submerged reefs and sandbanks.
Having enjoyed the
best summer that the Hebrides have had in 20 years and with the winter
almost set in, no more trips are planned this year but next year, I
hope to be able to explore the lochs on the east side of South Uist
and look at Berneray, the Monarch Isles, Vatersay and more of Barra,
all, of course, weather permitting.
(I didn't intend this
to be a geography lesson or, for that matter, any kind of lesson but I
hope it's been of some interest.) |