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The Further Voyages of

Route round Mull
Western Scotland from Canna to Islay

I can't really remember why I didn't go on any major trips last year ... I simply didn't ... and just settled for short runs around Eriskay and occasionally over to South Uist and Barra.
This year was different but the decision to do it wasn't made till May although this left more than enough time for all the preparations. "Saorsa" had spent the winter on her trolley in the field next to the house and was re-launched and put on her mooring at the Haunn in April with an almost new gearbox and other bits and pieces fixed that needed attention.

I've been a radio ham for many years, albeit far too inactive over the last few years but I still keep contact with a few other other enthusiasts. Earlier on this year, I received an email from a chap who lived down in the south of Scotland who asked if I could take him and a colleague out to one of the wee islands from where they planned to transmit so that they could add the island to their list for their Islands On The Air award. This I was happy to do and so when they arrived up here in June, we loaded up "Saorsa" with all their radio gear and went over to the isle of Fuday where they set it all up on the beach. The weather was perfect! Unfortunately I was unable to stay as other jobs required my attention but I returned in the evening to take them back to Eriskay and just before we left, we all enjoyed a very welcome dram on the beach. It had been good to be out on the water again but this was just a small precursor to the longer trip.

On Fuday with Alex, GM0DHZ.
André, GM3VLB, took the photograph

The plan was to include all the main islands from Canna to Islay but as the weather is always in control while at sea, my plans were kept very fluid. Another consideration I always have to bear in mind is that "Saorsa" is only a 21 foot diesel cruiser with a flat planing hull and a small keel so while a yacht looks for wind and can handle a fair sea, my boat needs winds no more than a Force 4 and a slight sea. Fortunately, I enjoyed good weather for most of the time.

Leaving Eriskay bound for the Isle of Canna

I left Eriskay on July 27 and sailed over a very flat Minch towards Canna where, 5 hours later, I tied up to the pier for the night. The harbour was full of yachts and I could clearly hear the sounds of gaiety and laughter coming across the still water from a number of them as the different crews enjoyed their sundowners. Early next morning and in slight rain, I set off for Inverie on Loch Nevis but within an hour or so, ran into fog and thus had to rely on navigating with the aid of my compass. With a whale for company which slowly circled me for about 30 minutes, I passed the Point of Sleat and came out of the fog.

Mallaig and the whole of the Sound was very clear and I made my way over to Loch Nevis where I tied up to a mooring, went ashore and enjoyed a great pint of real ale. After about an hour or so, I continued on my journey to Mallaig where I planned to spend a few days but just before reaching the harbour, I spotted an old friend of mine, Tom McClean, coming towards me in his boat. He was on his way back to Ardintigh on Loch Nevis with a party of visitors but we stopped our boats for a wee while and had a chat before continuing on our separate ways. It was good to see him again.

Mallaig was its old usual self and I met a lot of old friends during my 5 days there. I went to Fort William on one of the days and the Fisherman's Association Fun Weekend was also held that week. The village was full of folk, the Scottish Fisheries Protection ship "Minna" was at the pier all decked out with flags as were the fishing boats and great fun was had by all.

Mallaig Harbour

The Small Isles of Muck, Rhum and Eigg

But it was time for me to leave as I needed to be on the water once more and so, after Sunday Mass the next morning, I slipped out and turned south. Unfortunately it was almost midday by the time I left and I knew there was bad weather coming in so decided, sadly, not to call in at Eigg and Muck but to make straight for Loch Sunart in the Sound of Mull.

I could feel the wind freshening and the sea was becoming rougher as I passed the light at Ardnamurchan Point but as it was my first time, I considered it to be well worth while to celebrate with a wee dram to mark the occasion. Once into the Sound, the going became easier and I slipped into the very safe and sheltered Loch na Droma Buidha (off Loch Sunart) some 7 hours after leaving Mallaig. There's nothing here except peace and for the most part of 2 days, it rained and was foggy but I was fine, cozy and warm. Although only 21 feet long and an 8 foot beam, "Saorsa" boasts of being able to sleep 4 people and while this might be physically possible, it's certainly not the case, for all practical purposes. Having company on board for a few days would be fine but for long trips, not advisable ... which is why I sail alone. At least, I only have to consider myself and never suffer from loneliness . Although lots of things can go wrong, especially when sailing alone, one big comfort I do have is that there is a very reliable Volvo Penta diesel engine below decks which chugs away quite contentedly.

Passing the Ardnamurchan light,
the most westerly point of the British mainland

After the second night in Loch na Droma Buidha, I escaped back into the Sound and headed down to Craignure. Once again, I ran into fog, more dense than crossing over from Canna but this time, I wasn't as confident and nearly ran onto the rocks. A close shave but I slowly circled for perhaps half an hour when the fog lifted sufficiently for me to see my way out of trouble and continue on my journey. I stayed at Craignure for one night only and, after getting some water and supplies, set off into Lock Linnhe, sailing along the eastern shore of Lismore on very flat, milky-like water, bound for Port Appin.

Port Appin

My objective was to get into Loch Creran and make my way to the Creagan Inn which is on the northern shore just before the road bridge but I needed some local knowledge as the loch entrance was swift and narrow and so, at this point, my thanks to the local ferryman who gave me the correct advice. I've always found that advice from local folk is worth its weight in gold so I make a point to ask if I'm not sure. On a related theme, I also wish that certain 'yachties' would ask for knowledge too, particularly knowledge in how to sail and approach a mooring or drop an anchor. It was while I was here that I was nearly rammed by a yacht going at a rate of knots when trying to reach a mooring! 'Nuff said at this point but the lack of knowledge by some is a serious matter and can put lives at risk. Sad to say but at every place I visited, I saw much evidence of this.

Before leaving Port Appin, I paid a visit to the pub and enjoyed a pint before making my way through the very disturbed tidal overflows at the entrance to the loch. I was amazed at the vastness once inside despite having lived near here in Glen Creran some 22 years ago but then, of course, had only seen everything from a land perspective ... a very different picture indeed. I saw at least 2 yacht marinas and lots of boats and all very secluded. Moving slowly up the loch, I dropped anchor within yards of the shore just below the Inn and apart from some traffic noise coming from the Oban to Fort William road, all was quiet. I stayed here for 2 nights but enjoyed a couple of good meals and drinks at the pub. Perhaps it's a little silly but I tend not to spend much time cooking on the boat when it's just for myself. Rightly or wrongly, Corn Flakes, toast and eggs tend to feature quite prominently!

The Creagan Inn,
Loch Creran

At the head of Glen Creran

On the morning I left, I motored slowly under the bridge and up towards the head of the loch. Sadly there was low mist which prevented me seeing the full majesty of the mountains to the north, east and south of Glen Creran but the whole picture brought back many memories of our life when the children were young and the house we lived in some 2 miles up the single track glen road. Then it was time to leave and I made my way out of the loch and down to Oban.

Quite strange to make my grand entrance in a tiny 21 footer. Normally, I'm on-board the slightly longer "Clansman"! I stayed here for 5 days during which time, I took time out to catch the bus down to Balvicar. There was method in my madness as I wanted to see what Balvicar and the passage between Luing and Seil were like because they were to be my next ports of call and besides, it gave me the opportunity to see what the countryside was like there. Balvicar didn't appeal to me very much but I was very much taken with the pub next to The Bridge Over The Atlantic called "Tigh-an-Truish".

Oban

Murdo on board "Solas" in Oban

Back in Oban, I met an Inverness friend who had sailed his boat down from Ballachulish and when it was time to leave, we both sailed south in convoy down to the Puilladobhrain Anchorage on Seil Island.

It was his suggestion that we went there and I have to say that I much preferred it to going on round to Balvicar. It is accessible at all tides and is also extremely popular. I stayed there for 4 nights and every night, there were at least 15 to 20 boats of every description riding at anchor. I was very taken with the place.

Puilladobhrain Anchorage

Tigh-an-Truish, Seil Island

There is a footpath, albeit quite muddy in places, which, some 15 minutes later, leads you out next to the "Tigh-an-Truish" pub. I can't recall how old it is but it was certainly in existence during the '45 and when the tartan was outlawed, the men used to use the place in which to change out of the tartan and into trews (trousers) each time they crossed over the bridge to the mainland ... and vice-versa, of course, on their return.

My friend left after a couple of days, en-route to Mull, but I was quite content to linger a bit longer. One of the days was extremely hot and I decided to have a barbecue on the shore so, armed with all the necessary goodies safely stowed in the inflatable, I rowed ashore and had a very enjoyable meal, washed down with a few drams.
All this time, in fact, since my arrival at Craignure, I had benefited from some brilliant weather and this continued on my journey passed Luing, Scarba, the Gulf of Corryvreckan and on to Jura. Scarba, rising to about 1500 feet, looked very desolate but I could clearly see the only (I think) house on the island as I moved down the eastern shore. I was very tempted to go into the Gulf of Corryvreckan but the tides were not suitable ... and I don't have that knowledge anyway ... and so I passed it by, leaving it for another occasion.

And then there was Jura, some 27 miles from north to south, stretching away into the distance. I could easily see "Barnhill" above the north eastern shore which was where George Orwell ("1984" and "Animal Farm") used to live. I understand it's now a holiday home. I arrived at Craighouse late in the afternoon after a long 7½ hour trip in almost calm waters and tied up to one of the visitors moorings.
The island is pretty much split in half by Loch Tarbert with the northern end long and narrow and rising to just over 1500 feet at the highest point while the southern end is more bulbous shaped and home to the Paps of Jura, the highest of which is almost 2600 feet. The population numbers around 130 - if my memory serves me - and is spread out along the east coast of the island with Craighouse being the main center with it's shop, fuel supply, hotel, harbour and last but not least, the distillery. I was hoping to have a look around this but unfortunately, it was closed for its annual cleaning and maintenance so I settled for a pleasant chat and a "tasting" in the (distillery) shop.

The Paps of Jura

Port Ellen, Isle of Islay

The next morning, there was a coastguard warning of bad weather due in so I left Jura and headed south once again towards Port Ellen on Islay. The sun was out, the sea almost flat and just a slight wind as I left but all this changed as I passed the light on the Ardmore Islands. The sky darkened, the wind increased from the south east and the sea became quite rough giving me a hammering and resulting in my taking twice as long to reach the safety of Port Ellen. I was there for 4 nights but this time, it was not out of choice. The bad weather increased and, although in relative safety, "Saorsa" swung wildly on her anchor for 2 days.

During my enforced extended stay, I met a number of people including renewing my acquaintance with Ian Mitchell, the author, who lives near Port Ellen. His "Isles Of The West" is well worth reading. I also traveled around the island by bus and, on one occasion, went across the Sound of Islay from Port Askaig to Feolin and then on over to Craighouse for lunch. The current in the Sound is very swift on both incoming and outgoing tides and so a sensible run through is always at slack water. The island itself is quite large and supports some 4000 people mainly split between Port Ellen, Bowmore, Port Charlotte, Portnahaven and Port Askaig. There are also 7 whisky distilleries there too and all very distinguishable with their black painted names easily noticeable against the whitewashed walls when seen from off the coast. What with one thing and another, I never got the chance to visit any of them so perhaps I'll just have to go back there one day.

Port Askaig, Isle of Islay

At Port Ellen with Gordon Gale ... and friend

With good weather predicted for the 21st. of August, I made preparations to leave but I delayed my departure until midday as this would enable me to move through the Sound at low water. It was a perfect 5 hour run in almost flat water and I dropped my anchor on the east side of the Isle of Oronsay with, I have to add, a little bit of help, as regards position and sufficient water under me, from another yacht that had arrived at the same time. After an excellent meal and good conversation aboard the yacht, I returned to "Saorsa" and settled down for the night.

At around 3 o'clock in the morning, I was woken to find the boat pitching wildly and this pounding continued until about 10 o'clock when I decided to move out and head north to the ferry port of Scalasaig on Colonsay. The yacht was already moving out and I joined her astern and eventually reached the harbour while the yacht, far better built for this weather than "Saorsa", headed slowly off towards Loch Melfort. I managed to tie up to the north side of the pier but for 24 hours, the boat took a pounding rising up and down at least 6 to 8 feet and so, in the interests of my own safety, I was forced to abandon her for the night and seek shelter in the waiting room on the pier.
When I went back down to her before sunrise the next morning, I fully expected her to be on the rocks but she was (just about) still at the pier although her bow warps had snapped and she had sustained some damage as well. I have to say that climbing up and down the pier ladder a few times in the wind and rain and waiting in the dark for the right time to jump on board a pitching boat wasn't my idea of fun at all but I eventually managed to re-secure her.

Later that morning with the water still very rough, I took her around the pier and into the tiny harbour where I tied up alongside the small ferry boat (with kind courtesy of Kevin). The harbour is quite sheltered but almost completely dries out, particularly at low springs, so I was very glad that it was the time of neap tides while I was there. After almost 40 hours without sleep, I slept like a baby that night and woke up just in time to listen to a very favourable 5.20am Clyde Coastguard weather report. Before I left, I filled myself up with a huge slap-up breakfast at the cafe, aptly called "The Pantry", which was near the pier and was then taken for a tour around the island by a friendly islander. Besides the cafe, there is a shop and hotel on the island and, oh yes, petrol and diesel at the pumps opposite the shop costs £1.05 a litre ... or if you'd prefer it in real money, £4.77 a gallon!

Scalasaig on Colonsay

I left the harbour around midday and made my way over to the Sound of Iona, making sure I kept out of the way of the Torran Rocks which are all spread out just to the south of the Sound. As I got closer to the little harbour on Iona, it was easy to see that the place was packed out with visitors and boats. I had hoped to be able to "borrow" a mooring for an hour or tie up somewhere while I paid a quick visit to the cathedral but there was nothing available so I continued on my way to Bunessan where I arrived shortly before dusk. I was disappointed at not going ashore at Iona so decided to get the bus from Bunessan the next day and cross over from Fionnphort as the weather wasn't expected to be particularly good to sail over to Coll. Alas, my plans were dashed the next morning as I listened to the coastguard report. A short period of good weather before gales the following day prompted me to leave and this I did immediately, arriving at the harbour of Arinagour just under 4 hours later.

Staffa
(with apologies for the lack of clarity)

On the way, I stopped but didn't land, at Staffa. The rock formations were a fantastic sight and I could see the caves very clearly. Quite an incredible little island and I'm glad I've seen it first hand. After Staffa, I passed through the Treshnish Isles between Bac Mòr which I think looks rather like a submarine and Lunga and then, it was on to Coll.

The first night passed peacefully and I went ashore and had a good look around. Small white-washed cottages facing the bay line the single track road on the way from the middle pier to the restaurant called "The First Port Of Coll", the shop, post office, a gift shop and the hotel. After treating myself to a meal, I emerged from the restaurant to find the weather had got seriously worse in the space of an hour or so and I could see "Saorsa" bouncing around all over the place from a westerly wind and rough water running straight into the harbour from the south. Once back onboard, I left my anchor with a marker buoy and moved to a mooring for more safety but the weather got worse with winds up to gale force ... force 10 was imminent ... so once again, I abandoned the boat and booked in at a bed and breakfast for the night.

The next day, the situation was just as bad, if not perhaps a little worse but I went back onboard and virtually 'lived' in my waterproofs with my pockets plus my grab-bag stuffed full of various bits and pieces of things that I didn't want to lose, just in case the boat got into serious trouble and I had to leave her to the elements. This remained the case for the next 4 days but each day, I managed to get ashore to get something to eat and have a pint. I have to say that all the folk I met here were most friendly and encouraging and this gave me considerable comfort in my time of need.

Arinagour, Isle of Coll

Each day, the forecast kept talking of good weather for Tuesday the 31st and I built my hopes up for that day when I could make my 'escape' back across the Minch. Monday was a big improvement and by the evening, the water and wind was still once more. After a starter motor fault had been temporarily corrected with some very welcome help from Robert Sturgeon and a peaceful sleep that night, I awoke to a perfect day with no wind, slipped the mooring before dawn, made my way out of the harbour and turned north and on into a very settled Minch.

In my original plan, I wanted to land on Hyskeir and have a look around before going on back to Eriskay but after the last 9 or so days while on Colonsay and Coll, all I wanted to do was to get back as soon as I could and besides, I didn't want to risk 'upsetting' my starter motor again so I reluctantly bypassed the lighthouse. Shortly after that, I spotted a school of porpoises about 200 yards away heading towards the mainland. A fantastic sight but what was even more fantastic was that they suddenly turned and swam towards me, leaping and diving alongside and under the boat for about 5 minutes before turning again and resuming their journey. There must have been at least 10 of them, including their young and they swam so close I could almost touch them. It was a very humbling experience. Eriskay became clearer and clearer and I got quite excited as I got closer to the harbour and thoughts of Odysseus returning home to Ithaca after being away for 20 years flashed through my mind. At noon with an hour or so left to go, I had a 'welcome home' dram or two and I began to realize just how much I had missed hearing the Gaelic being spoken, the way of life and the family and friends I'd left behind 5 weeks and 2 days previously. I entered Acairseid Mhòr at 1 o'clock to a great welcome, 7 hours after leaving Coll.

Overall, it had been a great trip over 400 miles with no one thing being better than the other, despite having to deal with the bad weather. The islands I left out will just have to wait for another time which I'm sure will come one day. Certainly, Hyskeir and back is well within a days run ...
.......... but for now, I was home ... and the weather the next day? It got bad again!!

It's now the middle of October and it seems an age since I returned. "Saorsa" is now out of the water and sitting on her trailer in the field next to the house whilst waiting for various repairs to be carried out.
I've no real plans for next year yet but a day visit to the Hyskeir lighthouse is definitely on the agenda and I'd like to tour around the Hebrides north of Eriskay ... and then of course, there's always the Orkney's as a possibility. St. Kilda still beckons me too .............................